揭秘雙味火鍋五代傳承百年重慶火鍋?zhàn)呦蛉珖?/title> <meta name="keywords" content="" /> <meta name="description" content="　　五代傳承百年重慶火鍋?zhàn)呦蛉珖　≈袊腼兇髱熽惐虢颐刂貞c雙味火鍋周到（圖右）虛心求學(xué)重慶雙味火鍋制作技藝“周師兄”重慶雙味火鍋早期的重慶雙味火鍋中國烹飪大師陳彪“川菜泰斗”陳志剛　　沸騰一鍋紅油，" /> <meta name="copyright" content="人民網(wǎng)版權(quán)所有" /> <meta name="filetype" content="0"> <meta name="publishedtype" content="1"> <meta name="pagetype" content="1"> <meta name="catalogs" content="L_365402"> <meta name="contentid" content="L_34678119"> <meta name="publishdate" content="2021-04-16"> <meta name="author" content="L_104267"> <meta name="editor" content=""> <meta name="source" content="來源：重慶晚報(bào)"> <meta name="sourcetype" content=""> <meta http-equiv="X-UA-Compatible" content="IE=EmulateIE7" /> <meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width,initial-scale=1.0,minimum-scale=1.0,maximum-scale=1.0">   <link rel="stylesheet" href="http://www.people.com.cn/img/2016wb/page201801.css" type="text/css" media="all" charset="utf-8" /> <script type="text/javascript" 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target="_blank">重慶晚報(bào)</a></div> <div id="xhn5drdz" class="fr"> <div id="xhn5drdz" class="fx"> <div class="xhn5drdz" id="ops_share"></div> <script src="http://www.people.com.cn/img/2016wb/share_qr2019dwb.min.js" charset="utf-8"></script> </div> <div id="xhn5drdz" class="message"><a target="_blank"><img src="http://www.people.com.cn/img/2016wb/images/icon04.jpg" width="29" height="23"></a> </div> </div> </div> </div>   <div id="xhn5drdz" class="clearfix w1000_320 text_con">  <div id="xhn5drdz" class="fl text_con_left"> <div id="xhn5drdz" class="box_pic"></div> <div id="xhn5drdz" class="box_con"> <p> <strong>　　五代傳承百年重慶火鍋?zhàn)呦蛉珖?/strong></p> <p> <strong>　　中國烹飪大師陳彪揭秘重慶雙味火鍋</strong></p> <p style="text-align: center;"> <img alt="" src="/NMediaFile/2021/0416/LOCAL202104160822000190819032629.jpg" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"> 周到（圖右）虛心求學(xué)重慶雙味火鍋制作技藝</p> <p style="text-align: center;"> <img alt="" src="/NMediaFile/2021/0416/LOCAL202104160822000307432333032.jpg" width="400" height="206" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"> “周師兄”重慶雙味火鍋</p> <p style="text-align: center;"> <img alt="" src="/NMediaFile/2021/0416/LOCAL202104160822000521310324120.jpg" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"> 早期的重慶雙味火鍋</p> <p style="text-align: center;"> <img alt="" src="/NMediaFile/2021/0416/LOCAL202104160823000061536442198.jpg" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"> 中國烹飪大師陳彪</p> <p style="text-align: center;"> <img alt="" src="/NMediaFile/2021/0416/LOCAL202104160823000209680890986.jpg" width="400" height="559" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"> “川菜泰斗”陳志剛</p> <p> 　　沸騰一鍋紅油，涮燙四海食材。常有人道，重慶火鍋是麻辣鮮香碰撞出的空前美味。不曾想，鮮香麻辣只是A面，它同樣也有溫柔醇厚的B面。</p> <p> 　　紅湯鍋中涮得下雜碎邊角，清湯鍋里也燙得了花樣食材。這是獨(dú)屬于重慶火鍋、川菜“陳門”以及周師兄重慶火鍋的“雙味江湖”。</p> <p> <strong>　　1</strong></p> <p> <strong>　　溯源：</strong></p> <p> <strong>　　“川菜泰斗”陳志剛首創(chuàng)</strong></p> <p> 　　情懷有千種，重慶火鍋亦有百派。然，但凡說起重慶雙味火鍋，“川菜泰斗”陳志剛，便是一個(gè)不得不提的名字。</p> <p> 　　1983年，陳志剛參加全國首屆烹飪大賽時(shí)首創(chuàng)雙味火鍋，這鍋“清紅湯”曾入國家領(lǐng)導(dǎo)人之口，并獲高度贊許。也正是憑借這道雙味火鍋，作為川渝廚師界頗具影響力的人物，陳志剛“川菜泰斗”的名聲愈發(fā)響亮。</p> <p> 　　雙味火鍋后被人們美譽(yù)為“鴛鴦火鍋”。</p> <p> 　　美食講傳承，好手藝總繞不開“世代相傳”四個(gè)字。</p> <p> 　　陳志剛師承“川菜圣手”羅國榮，師傅名頭響當(dāng)當(dāng)，是重慶頤之時(shí)餐廳創(chuàng)始人，曾被國家領(lǐng)導(dǎo)人譽(yù)為“中國四大名廚”“中國烹飪界四大名旦”之一，還被國家領(lǐng)導(dǎo)人夸為“帥才”。</p> <p> 　　若往上細(xì)究，則更顯底蘊(yùn)不凡。祖師爺，羅國榮的恩師黃敬臨曾任清宮御廚，一臺(tái)“菊花火鍋”深受慈禧太后喜愛，賞賜四品頂戴。</p> <p> 　　這無疑意味著，“火鍋”二字于“陳門”而言，是同歲月一起沉淀了百余年的味道。</p> <p> 　　這也意味著，重慶火鍋擁有著“宮廷火鍋”的基因。</p> <p> 　　至今已有17家直營(yíng)門店，月排隊(duì)超10萬的周師兄火鍋在重慶可謂家喻戶曉，曾連續(xù)三年入圍“黑珍珠餐廳”。然而，鮮有人知的是，川菜“陳門”火鍋行業(yè)傳承人，周師兄火鍋董事長(zhǎng)周到便師承陳志剛之子陳彪。</p> <p> 　　“周師兄”作為秉承五代傳承的重慶火鍋，亦后繼有人。</p> <p> <strong>　　2</strong></p> <p> <strong>　　傳承：</strong></p> <p> <strong>　　一手真?zhèn)�，鮮辣好吃</strong></p> <p> 　　陳彪是中國烹飪大師、中式烹飪高級(jí)技師，1962年生于重慶，陳彪是長(zhǎng)兄,是常人眼里該繼承家業(yè)的長(zhǎng)子。</p> <p> 　　“說來或許很多人不信，老爺子從未強(qiáng)迫過我學(xué)廚。他的想法是，能學(xué)個(gè)穩(wěn)當(dāng)?shù)氖炙嚵⒆闵鐣?huì)。理發(fā)不錯(cuò)，學(xué)照相也很好�！标惐霙]同意，在他看來，自己骨子里的觀念早已根深蒂固無法更改，“天生就喜歡鐵鍋灶臺(tái)，也想吃這碗飯。”</p> <p> 　　沒有任何猶豫，17歲高中畢業(yè)后，陳彪義無反顧地走上了和父親相同的道路。</p> <p> 　　哪怕人至中年，陳彪憶起少年時(shí)跟父親在頤之時(shí)學(xué)習(xí)川菜的過程，依舊感慨萬分。</p> <p> 　　“晚上，大家下了灶，父親又點(diǎn)起燈，給我‘開小灶’。學(xué)員們看見了，說不走了，硬是要‘蹭課’聽�！薄�1986年，我曾參加重慶市委組織的‘首屆青年廚師大賽’。比賽前，父親還在手把手教我八寶鴨的剔骨，說我剔得欠火候，一個(gè)晚上要求我練習(xí)剔十幾只雞鴨�！�</p> <p> 　　后來，這場(chǎng)比賽，陳彪從近200人中摘下頭名。得知消息的陳志剛給出了最“輕描淡寫”的反應(yīng)，“不錯(cuò)，沒有辜負(fù)我的期望。”</p> <p> 　　虎父無犬子。學(xué)得父親一手真?zhèn)鞯年惐耄群笤谠虡I(yè)部指定的全國五大烹飪技術(shù)培訓(xùn)站之一——重慶味苑餐廳擔(dān)任教學(xué)老師，后擔(dān)任凌湯圓大酒樓、九龍美食城、重慶渝都大酒店等單位的廚師長(zhǎng)。在當(dāng)年，眼見兒子愈發(fā)獨(dú)當(dāng)一面，陳志剛也將自創(chuàng)的雙味火鍋傳給了他。</p> <p> 　　說到雙味火鍋，陳彪講起了那個(gè)父親津津樂道了一輩子的故事�！案赣H給國家領(lǐng)導(dǎo)人做了一次雙味火鍋。對(duì)方拿起勺，連喝三勺紅湯，評(píng)價(jià)道，‘鮮辣！好吃！真好吃！’怕紅湯讓其身體不適，父親忐忑了一晚上。早上得知無恙，才把心放回肚子�！�</p> <p> 　　那口呈“太極”狀的雙味鍋，由陳志剛大師委托重慶東風(fēng)造船廠打造，如今已傳承于周師兄火鍋?zhàn)鳌版?zhèn)店之寶”。</p> <p> 　　“我吃過多次父親做的雙味火鍋。說實(shí)話，與現(xiàn)在的火鍋味道有一定差距�！标惐胝f，早前的重慶火鍋，講究三分油七分水。曾經(jīng)的油水比例，決定過去的油碟幾乎不放鹽。</p> <p> 　　不過，他也認(rèn)同，重慶火鍋千姿百態(tài)，喜歡的就是最好的，適應(yīng)大眾的就是最好的。</p> <p> <strong>　　3</strong></p> <p> <strong>　　弘揚(yáng)：</strong></p> <p> <strong>　　要做，就做最地道的</strong></p> <p> 　　在陳彪記憶里，曾經(jīng)的重慶火鍋食材遠(yuǎn)不如當(dāng)下豐富。</p> <p> 　　“當(dāng)年，殺牛的就那幾家，毛肚時(shí)至今日，依然是食客們的心頭好。”</p> <p> 　　“重慶味苑那時(shí)經(jīng)常接待外賓，一般的火鍋店環(huán)境不太符合就餐標(biāo)準(zhǔn)�！标惐雽⒏牧己蟮碾p味火鍋搬進(jìn)了大飯店，清湯涮取生鮮食材，海參鮮蝦，湯底恬淡；紅紅亮亮的滾湯就燙傳統(tǒng)的毛肚鴨腸黃喉，裹以香油蒜泥，脆嫩鮮辣。</p> <p> 　　“在上個(gè)世紀(jì)80年代，味苑的雙味火鍋就需預(yù)訂。人均45元，算得上當(dāng)時(shí)的高消費(fèi)�！标惐爰�(xì)數(shù)著當(dāng)年深受外賓喜愛的火鍋菜：牛肉、雞肉、蝦仁……一般吃一桌四五百元，但食客仍贊不絕口。</p> <p> 　　隨著改革開放的機(jī)遇，陳彪離開味苑北上，把重慶雙味火鍋帶進(jìn)了北京人的視野。曾在北京巴渝小鎮(zhèn)餐飲管理有限公司擔(dān)任行政總廚的陳彪，用一層樓、近1000平方米，擺了30張桌子，賣重慶火鍋。他降低了鍋底辣度，笑著把它比喻成“侵略菜系”。顧客給足了面子，反響不錯(cuò)，每晚幾乎都坐滿。</p> <p> 　　“20多年前，我常常遺憾，重慶火鍋在外的名氣仍不夠響亮，對(duì)于麻辣火鍋的熱愛，很大程度上被局限在了山城�！钡铌惐胄牢康氖�，當(dāng)年那個(gè)潛心學(xué)手藝，立下雄心壯志——要把重慶火鍋帶向全國，甚至許愿“為重慶火鍋成為中華美食代表而努力”的徒弟，并沒有令他失望。</p> <p> 　　陳彪所指的徒弟，正是當(dāng)下風(fēng)頭正勁的周師兄重慶火鍋創(chuàng)始人、董事長(zhǎng)周到。</p> <p> 　　“這個(gè)小伙子肯學(xué)，認(rèn)真。我曾手把手教過他重慶雙味火鍋底料的比例�！标惐胝f，周到常常拉住他請(qǐng)教，說，“師父，雙味火鍋要做，就做最地道的，我們?cè)俸煤锰接懮罹恳幌��！?/p> <p> 　　傳承有序，接班有人。陳彪深感欣慰。</p> <p> 　　就在前不久，周師兄雙味火鍋傳統(tǒng)制作技藝列入渝北區(qū)第九批區(qū)級(jí)非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)代表性項(xiàng)目。</p> <p> 　　周到坦言，對(duì)他來說，干一行愛一行很重要。作為“陳門”人，他想讓那一口麻與辣交匯，紅與清共存的火鍋在未來，擁有更多可能。</p> <p> 　　重慶晚報(bào)-上游新聞?dòng)浾?周蕎</p> <div id="xhn5drdz" class="zdfy clearfix"></div><center><table border="0" align="center" width="40%"><tr></tr></table></center> <div id="xhn5drdz" class="box_pic"></div> <div id="xhn5drdz" class="edit clearfix">(責(zé)編：陳易、張祎)</div> </div>  <script type="text/javascript"> picbig();//小圖恢復(fù)原有寬度 function picbig(){ if($(window).width() < 415){ if($(".sub").text().length == 0){ $(".sub").css("padding-top","0px") } if($(".author").text().length == 0){ $(".author").css("padding-top","0px") } $(".box_con p").each(function(index, element) { /*if ($(this).is(':has(img)')) {*/ if 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